ArticleManagerFeatures of high-quality jeans
1. Authentic jeans use indigo dye, and the fabric is colorless or striped. After stone grinding, there is a bright and bright feeling, slightly red light, and no significant color staining of the bag cloth.
2. After stone grinding, the fabric feels soft and the cloth is plump and velvety. The sewing frills are ground white, there are no traces of grinding on the flat surface, and the color is uniform and consistent.
3. Sewing makes double sewing, the waist is sewn by chain type, and the 215/3 strands of pure polyester are used to sew firmly, and it is not easy to remove the seam.
4. The metal hook, button and brand are in the gap, the coating is not worn, and the reverse side is lined with cloth blocks to prevent chipping and damage.
Jeans of several different fabrics
Ring yarn denim
With the development and application of new process equipment such as ring spinning high speed, large roll packaging, fine winding and knotless yarn, the shortcomings of roving spinning yarn such as short length, low production efficiency and many knots have been solved. The replacement of denim yarn with airflow yarn is rapidly changing, and ring yarn is making a comeback. Because ring yarn denim is superior to some properties of airflow yarn, such as feel, drape, tear strength, etc., but also due to people’s psychological return to nature, the pursuit of the influence of the original development of denim style, more importantly, the ring yarn denim clothing after grinding processing, the surface will show a hazy bamboo style, which is in line with the personalized needs of today’s denim. In addition, the current market is very popular bamboo yarn denim, and ring ingot bamboo can spin shorter and denser bamboo, which also promotes the development momentum of ring denim.
Bamboo denim
When the design of bamboo yarn with different yarn sizes, different bamboo thickness (ratio to base yarn), bamboo length and pitch, using single warp or single weft direction and warp and weft bidirectional are equipped with bamboo yarn, and the same number or different numbers of normal yarn for appropriate ratio and arrangement, you can produce a variety of bamboo denim, after clothing washing and processing can form a variety of hazy or clearer stripe style denim, welcomed by consumer personalized demand groups. Early bamboo denim almost all used ring bamboo yarn, because it can spin bamboo yarn with short length, smaller pitch and relatively large density, which is easy to form a denser embellishment effect on the cloth, and is mainly based on warp bamboo. With the development of market consumer demand, warp and weft two-way bamboo denim is currently popular, especially two-way bamboo denim products with weft elasticity, which are very popular in domestic and foreign markets. As long as the organizational structure of some varieties is well designed, a single variety of ring yarn can be used in the warp direction, and an appropriate proportion of bamboo yarn can be used in the weft direction, which can also achieve the effect of bamboo denim in both warp and weft.
Weft stretch denim
The use of spandex stretch yarn has developed denim varieties to a new field, which can make denim both close and comfortable, and then matched with bamboo or different colors, so that denim products are more suitable for fashion, personalized consumer demand, so there is great potential for development. At present, most of the elastic denim is weft elasticity, elastic elongation is generally 20% ~ 40%, the size of elastic elongation depends on the tissue design of the fabric, the smaller the tightness of the warp and weft structure on the cloth machine, the greater the elasticity, on the contrary, under the condition of fixed tightness of the warp structure, the greater the tightness of the weft elastic yarn, the smaller the elasticity, the weft tightness reaches a certain extent, and even the loss of elasticity will occur. In addition, the current outstanding problem of stretch denim finished cloth is that the weft shrinkage rate is too large, generally more than 10%, and some even as high as 20%. The unstable cloth width brings great difficulties to the production of clothing, the solution is not to make the elasticity stretch too large in product design, generally take 20% ~ 30%, that is, maintain a certain warp and weft tissue tightness, and take the method of appropriately increasing the tension when pre-shrinking and finishing, so that the cloth width has a large shrinkage, so as to obtain the residual shrinkage rate of the finished cloth weft direction; Another solution is that the stretch denim is pre-shrinked and finished and heat-set, so that a more uniform and consistent cloth width and a more stable, lower weft shrinkage can be obtained to meet the requirements of garment processing and production.
Special color denim
Because garments made of super indigo dyed or extra deep indigo dyed denim can obtain a special effect of intense and bright color after grinding and processing, it is widely welcomed by consumers.
“Ultra indigo” dyed denim has two major characteristics: the dyeing depth is particularly deep and the color fastness to grinding is particularly good. The former refers to the amount of indigo dye dyed on the yarn per unit weight (generally the dye accounts for % of the yarn dry weight, referred to as the dyeing depth %) is particularly large, for example, the conventional denim warp yarn indigo dyeing depth is 1% ~ 3%, and the “super indigo” dyeing depth needs to reach more than 4%, can be called super indigo or extra deep indigo. The latter means that “ultra-indigo” dyed jeans need to undergo repeated grinding for more than 3 hours, and their color can still reach or exceed the color depth of conventional dyed denim when it is not polished, and its color light is much brighter than conventional dyed denim. For the color fastness of indigo dyed denim, its essence depends on the degree of core penetration of the dye to the yarn, rather than the grinding fastness of the dye itself (the wet grinding fastness of indigo is only level 1), that is, the better the core penetration, the better the color fastness to grinding.
In the past, the so-called “indigo dyeing rapid washing process” was actually in the yarn dyeing process, deliberately making the indigo dye very light on the fiber penetration, so that when denim clothing grinding processing, the extremely thin layer of dye on the surface of the yarn was ground off, revealing more white yarn core, so that the color quickly lightened, so as to achieve the effect of fading immediately after a short time of grinding. The “super indigo” dyeing process, on the contrary, requires a particularly good degree of dye penetration, so that denim clothing can be polished and processed to obtain a deep and bright color.
Since the dyeing depth of “super indigo” dyed denim products is more than 60% higher than that of conventional traditional denim dyeing, the indigo concentration of the dyeing solution will also be doubled, even reaching 3~4g/L, and it is possible to obtain a deeper color. In this way, the viscosity of the dye solution increases, the fluidity becomes poor, and the penetration ability of the dye cryptochromate is affected, so that the color fastness of denim is reduced, and the final depth demand for clothing production cannot be reached. Therefore, some companies adopt the design of increasing the dyeing depth again, so that the concentration of indigo of the dyeing solution increases again, and the penetration performance becomes worse, so that the vicious circle is formed back and forth, and it still cannot meet the requirements of “super indigo” color. The higher the concentration of indigo in the dyeing solution, the heavier the red light of the dye, the darker the color, and there is no “super indigo” effect. Therefore, many production plants have or are preparing to modify the dyeing and pulping equipment to solve this problem by increasing the number of dyeing passes. For example, increasing the number of dyeing channels to 8 or even 10 not only increases investment costs, consumption of dyeing materials, increases the difficulty of operation, and increases environmental pollution. A better way to solve this contradiction is to appropriately reduce the dosage of insurance powder or caustic soda, especially the control of the amount of caustic soda, so that the pH value of the dyeing solution is stable between 11~12, the dyeing rate is the highest and the color is stable, and the dyeing tension of the warp yarn is appropriately reduced, so as to obtain a better “super indigo” dyeing effect.
Color-coded denim with indigo as the base color
In order to increase the color and color change of indigo denim varieties, various color denim varieties are currently extremely popular. For example, indigo set dyeing sulfide black, indigo sleeve dyeing vulcanized grass green, vulcanic black green, vulcanized blue, etc., to meet the personalized needs of the market. At the same time, denim manufacturers have their own patented new varieties of denim to improve the competitiveness of the market. In this regard, it should be noted that the concentration of the mother liquor should be controlled as much as possible to prevent excessive overflow of the dye solution from causing the waste of dyes and expanding environmental pollution.
Colored (color) denim
Mainly bromine indigo (commonly known as emerald blue) denim and vulcanized black denim, as well as the use of sulfur dye color-blocking coffee, emerald green, gray, khaki, sulfide blue denim, and a small amount of naftu dye or reactive dye dye dyeing red, peach, concubine denim, etc., although the production batch is not large, but the market demand is more urgent, often can not meet the need. The main problem is that the color and light are not stable enough, the dyeing attention is also poor, and the garment production plant is not satisfied, which is of course related to the small production batch and too many colors, but it is difficult to produce what color varieties are produced by the dyeing and pulping combined machine, the consumption is large, the cost is high, and the sewage is difficult to treat, etc., which also has a certain impact. The first solution is to minimize the number of color matching when designing, use two color matching as much as possible, no more than three color matching, or replace it with other more stable dye varieties to adapt to the production characteristics of the dyeing and pulping line table and obtain a more stable dyeing effect; The second is a more thorough solution or the use of yarn-dyed factory yarn large-capacity dyeing, slitting and warping production process route to produce shishi denim is ideal.