As the saying goes, “Wear clothes and hats, each has its own good.” “It seems that wearing clothes and hats can be done spontaneously. In fact, it is at the mercy of “fashion”. “Fashionable, fashionable”, prosperous according to the times. The times are different, and so is the “Xing”. “Fashionable” is herd. It’s popular.

Clothing has always indicated rank and status. From the ancient Gungun princes to the later five colors, they all clearly defined their rank and showed their status. Noble and humble, you can see at a glance.

After the establishment of the Republic of China, Zhongshan clothing became a ceremonial dress; The robe and horse coat are Chinese dresses. Ordinary people, in time for weddings and funerals, red and white happy events, to see important guests and other occasions should wear robes and horse coats; Long clothes must be worn when going out. The small clothes are dressed short, and the “short pouting” is not a system. The clerks of the shops should also wear robes, be civilized and polite, and respect customers; Store culture.

The guy in the handicraft workshop, the master who sells his physical strength, usually dresses up short; Shorts on the upper body. Trousers with leggings. Arms and legs are sharp. The work is different, and the weather is hot and cold; Wear it to see the opportunity to act, practical first.

In Beijing, long robes are called “big coats”, cotton robes are called “big cotton jackets”, leather robes are called “big leather coats”, and long clothes are called “big coats”. Short clothes are called “small”. In winter, it turned out to be a short jacket, with an extra piece obliquely on the chest, and the wind was warm; Change to a placket, convenient and easy. There are also short-sleeved cotton jackets with cotton shoulders; Wear cotton overpants on the bottom. Labor up, arms and legs are flexible.

The horse coat is also a placket; Unlike the gown, the sleeves are longer than the body, and the back is open.

The withdrawal of the robe and horse coat came after the founding of New China. Vice President of the State at the founding ceremony


One of them, Mr. Zhang Lan, also wears robes. After 1951, long clothes were rarely seen on the streets. popular cadre uniform, octagonal hat; Women’s “Lenin suit”, men’s Zhongshan suit. Gray and blue are the most colored. If you can’t afford it, change your robe to a short jacket. The streets were all short and pouting. After 1960, Chinese-style short jackets were popular for a while, and the “abacus pimples” button loops only had one seam on the neckline, and the rest were changed to hidden buttons. There is no open pocket, the chest is flat, quite elegant. People jokingly call it the “Atomic Suit”.

Also changed is the leggings strap. Not “leggings”, leggings are long cloth belts that officers and soldiers of the troops wrapped around their calves. The “leg strap” is a strap that ties the leg of the trouser to the wrist of the leg. Produced exclusively in the ribbon industry. Men and women of all ages use it differently; For men, it is black, about four centimeters wide, about fifty centimeters long, and has four or five centimeters of tassels at both ends. The legs of the trousers are folded from the inside out, pressing the tassel at one end of the leg strap, and wrapping it clockwise flatly, and the tassel head is tucked in. In summer, wear light-colored silk trousers, hand-sewn “streamers”, narrow, less than two centimeters, with two ends like arrows, two loops around the legs and wrists, fastened buckles, and walked like bloomers. Ladies are divided into age groups, the elderly, the foot is bound, the leg straps are wide and long, the ankles are very thick, and the golden lotus is more delicate. middle-aged, with narrower bands than men, mostly black in color; Young people and children, with flowers, the background color is red and green, woven with pattern patterns. Choose from a pile shop (department store). There are also frequent street vendors, waving rattles to solicit business.

Everyone changed to “uniform pants” and loose pants. The “leg straps” do nothing.

The silk line for making leg straps should leave some traces in history.

Ribbon line, the Qing Dynasty was very prosperous, called 绦行. production of various straps (tapestry), tied around the waist and tied to the legs; There are also ribbons woven into various patterns (now called lace), inlaid on clothes (inlaid with tapestry), and we often see costumes with tapestry in photos of the late Qing and early Min. 绦行, one of the three hundred and sixty lines. Xingxing has its own “organization” (guild) and its own activity place (industry guild), such as Liyuan Xing and Yuxing. The ancestor of Suanxing is Nezha, there is a Suixing Guild, and the place of activity is Nezha Temple. The temple is on a high ground outside the western wall of Beijing’s Xiannong Altar, in a pond called Black Dragon Pool. The small temple, just a small Buddha hall, is dedicated to Nezha. Nezha became the ancestor of Xingxing because he showed his skills in the “List of Gods”. “Romance of the Gods: The Twelfth Series” narrates that Nezha fights with Ao Bing, the third prince of the Dragon King, and Ao Bing dies and appears as a dragon. He took out the dragon tendons from the dead dragon, offered the loot to his father Tota Li Tianwang, and made a belt, and the descendants imitated this and had silk. The vicious Nezha is revered as an ancestor, and “becoming a king and defeating a curse” influences people. It is said that the statue of Nezha is charitable and gentle, and his role in blessing the four directions is not only to eliminate disasters (deter demon dragons), rainfall, security and more wealth. Good men and women came to ask for signatures, blessed, and plaques of merit. There are stone steles in the temple, one of which was erected in the 40th year of Qianlong (1775) and the other was erected in the 23rd year of Jiaqing (1819) “The Stele of the Gongsho of Suixing”. The first stele records the history of the establishment of the Guild. The second tablet describes a public welfare undertaking of the Qiuhang Guild, which raised funds from the public and purchased “righteous land”. It reflects the beautiful human nature in traditional culture, the first to die is great, the dead are respected, and the living have dignity. In a special period, human dignity is trampled underfoot, and human life is not as good as a piece of thin paper, which is tore and kneaded casually, and dies, like waste paper thrown into a paper basket. People exchange physical strength and craftsmanship for food and clothing, and their status is humble, but self-respect, respect for others, and perfect human nature connotations! Life and death are the beginning and end of the chain of human nature, and they are even more important links. Copy a few sentences of the “Monument of the Imperial Office of the Silk” and end the text: “Kyoto is a district where hundreds of lines gather, and the number of people is increasing day by day. Often there are those who die in the trip, and the poor can not help the returnees, every time there is nowhere to bury, the bones are abandoned, it is good to regret! It is to set up a righteous garden in various walks of life, or to donate money to send money, so that the soul is powerless and alone, and there is a dependency. …… But Yu waited for a line to do a line to the unrighteous. …… Who is ignorant and unsympathetic? In the 23rd year of Jiaqing, the public agreed to donate, and contributed to the Beijing money to pick up and rectify, and put a righteous section in front of the Black Dragon Pond Temple. In the course of my trip, if the guest dies in the capital and the coffin is unable to return to the house, in the reporting meeting, the bar is carried into the soil for burial, and the deceased is put into the earth for peace, and there is no sorrow of zero dew! ”

(Transferred from the old Beijing website)

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